SBCC Brooklyn Hoodie Revisited

I went back for seconds of the Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick Brooklyn Hoodie and I'm so glad I did.  I love this pattern! This time I chose the shorter version and added rib knit trim for the hem and wrist bands, and I'm happy with both of those changes.  After sewing the longer version and also trying the Seamwork Oslo, I've decided that I really don't like things that go too far below my hips.

The french terry fabric and coordinating rib knit are from Hell Gate Fabrics and both are amazing. It's the same fabric that is used on the SBCC pattern sewalong and envelope.   

I cut a small but shaved off an additional 1/4 inch when I pushed the side seams through my serger.  The terry is very stretchy and I wanted to start with a slimmer fit. SBCC patterns are made for petites.  I'm just a smidge under 5'4 and I have a long torso, but the short version is perfect on me without lengthening it. 

I will be making this pattern again and again.  I think I've done a good job of keeping my focus on making pieces that fit into my every day life instead of sewing things I won't get as much use out of.  In the sewing world I think that's called making cake instead of frosting.  And I don't wear a party dress out with these two hoodlums.  They took my pictures for this post and I think they did pretty good considering they didn't want to do it at all.  Happy sewing!

 

 



SBCC Moto Chic Jacket

 This is my second make from the Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick pattern company and I've enjoyed both. This jacket turned out just like I wanted it to. I like the moto jacket look but didn't feel like working with leather, so I chose a mustard yellow corduroy from Mood for the shell and a rayon from Cotton+Steel for the lining. 

I don't usually wear anything with a peplum, but I do like this one a lot.  The gathering adds a nice feminine detail. 

The instructions for this are pretty sparse without a lot of diagrams, but there is a sewalong to help you out. The trickiest part in my opinion is sewing the zipper on because you are sewing each half to two different pieces. In the picture below, the top zipper is on the side front panel, while the bottom zipper is on the center front panel. They are two different lengths and shapes, so I pinned the shoulder seams together to help make sure it was all lined up right. 

Then I put the other center front piece over the side front panel to make sure it looked ok before I stitched the zipper.  Don't rush through this part or you might be off a little bit and have to rely on your seam ripper. 

When it came time to bag the lining, one of my center front panels was flapping around at the waist seam.  I don't know if I missed something in the directions, but I eventually stopped reading the instructions and just fiddled with it until I figured out how to attach that part and then sew the lining on. 

My apologies for the poor indoor lighting, but I wanted to show the lining.  I'm not crazy about how it doesn't extend down to the hem.  I didn't plan ahead and used white serger thread (because I'm lazy) which is kind of glaring against the yellow.  If I had it to do over again, I would draft a lining for the peplum and then hand stitch it to the hem. 

This is what it looks like unzipped so you can see how it goes together:

I recommend this pattern, but not for someone who has never made a jacket before .  Try something more straight-forward without the side zipper and overlapping panels, and then come back to this.  Happy sewing!

SBCC Brooklyn Hoodie

This is a new pattern company for me and I enjoyed my first time sewing with them.  Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick Patterns recently released the Brooklyn Hoodie and I jumped on that bandwagon because my hoodie situation is sad.  There is a sewalong that goes along with it that was helpful, but the instructions are clear enough that you can do it without the sewalong. 

This was my first time sewing with french terry.  It's always fun to try something you've never had experience with before.  I ordered this fabric (and the fabric for what is going to be my last Granville this season at the end of this post) from Hell Gate Fabrics, which is new on the scene.  I enjoyed my shopping experience, and would recommend it to others.  I love independent pattern companies and fabric suppliers because they are so accessible.  The shipping is quick, and she even refunds your change on shipping if it comes under what she quoted. 

The quality is very nice and also very warm.  The sewalong gives some nice tips for this material.  I chose size small and if I had to do it over again I would have gone down a size just for this material.  It steams back into shape really well, but it's very stretchy as you wear it.

I attempted to sew twill tape along the hood seam and that proved to be a disaster.  I didn't like how it looked so I ripped it out and tore some big holes in my fabric while I was at it.  I sewed the hood seam again to encase those holes in my serger thread.  That little remnant of twill tape is staying put!

 

And here's my last Granville until next fall/winter.  This is a Japanese print from Hell Gate Fabrics and I had to have it because it was so unique.  I like to look in my closet and see four handmade button ups in happy prints. 

Muse Jenna Cardi + Sewaholic Renfrew

I have wanted to add handmade cardigans to my wardrobe for quite awhile since my RTW cardigans are starting to look a little raggedy. I used the Muse Jenna Cardi pattern and paired it with the mustard yellow fabric from Cloud 9.  I've never used their fabric before but I was impressed with how soft it is.  I was pleased to discover that it goes with a lot of tops in my closet already, like this Granville and this Granville. It adds a nice pop of color. 



Do you see the waves along the hem band?  Is that a tension issue with my serger or an issue with the fabric I used?  The blue polka dot top Renfrew top is also from Cloud 9 (and also super soft, by the way).  I used the same tension and had no waves.  I thought using a twin needle to topstitch the seam allowance might help.  It didn't.   Speaking of the Sewaholic Renfrew pattern, it's the best tshirt pattern in the entire world in my humble opinion. 

The Jenna Cardi is a very quick make.  I would like for it to become a wardrobe staple but I'm not sure if I like how the shoulder seam hits below my shoulder.  I prefer it when the shoulder seam sits on my shoulder like in a button up top, so I'll have to decide if I can live with this. The sleeve piece is also incredibly long.  I think I ended up cutting off about 3 inches so that the cuff wouldn't go past my fingers. 

Winston and I are trying to pretend like it's not freezing outside in Kansas today.  Happy sewing!

2015 Wrap Up! My 5 Favorites

I love year-end wrap ups! I didn't sew as much this year as I did last year, but I did go way outside my usual sewing zone which feels pretty productive. My favorites:

I have a lot of love for the Deer&Doe Pavot jacket with the triangular buttonholes.  I highly recommend the pattern.  It's a great spring coat. 

McCalls 6506 was my first ever make from a Big-4 pattern (I'm not kidding) and it turned out really well.  My fabric choice ended up feeling a little dressier than I was going for initially, so I'll probably revisit this pattern next summer in a more casual fabric. 

I've made the Sewaholic Granville three times now, so it definitely makes the cut for favorites.  This was my first. 

I ventured into the world of Spandex with the Closet Case Files Bombshell swimsuit and I have to admit it wasn't all that bad. 

I only have one Sewaholic Oakridge but I love wearing it.  Such a happy print!

Overall I'm pleased with the work I produced.  I participated in the Goodbye Valentino RTW fast for two years and that had a very positive impact on my sewing skills.  A big bright world opens up when the focus shifts to making instead of buying. 

I Made An Outfit!

 

 

I'm trying to make more of an effort to make pieces that go together instead of random pieces that don't quite mesh with the other things in my closet. I made a Colette Moneta awhile ago that I was planning to wear with tights in the winter, but I never wear it in the winter because I didn't make the red cardigan that would look best with it.  This time I picked three patterns and three fabrics and went to work.

The cardigan is the Seamwork Oslo in ponte knit.  I'm underwhelmed by it.  I was roped in by the promise of completing it in 2 hours, so I overlooked the fact that it's really not my style.  I tend to like things with a little shape to them and the Oslo is the opposite of that.  I cut a size small but the finished result was not great.  I chopped 4 inches off the bottom (which made it too short) and took in the sides a bit but it still doesn't work for me.

I made pants! This is my first ever pair of pants and I feel pretty good about it.  Since I'm a novice I find myself in the position of not being able to tell what might be wrong with them or what I should do differently, but I'm trusting that I'll figure that out as I sew more pants.  I do know that they are the most comfortable pair of pants I own right now and I don't find myself repeatedly pulling them up at the waist all day.  I used the Sewaholic Thurlow pattern and Lladybird's tutorial which is so helpful. 

There are wrinkles on the backs of my legs but I did read that you need some excess fabric there in order to be able to sit down.  I'm not sure if I have too many wrinkles.  Thoughts? In the picture they look tight in the bum but they don't feel that way when I wear them.  The material is very cotton-y and has quite a bit of stretch but was labeled denim on Mood.  I'm pretty clueless about choosing denim on-line but I think I'll get the hang of it with experience.

I think my fly went together pretty well for my first try.  I can zip my pants so I think this is what it's supposed to look like. 

My welts went together well but one of them came apart on one side when I washed them.  I'll have to take extra care next time.  I've definitely got room to improve but for my first shot at pants I'm pleased!

And last but not least we have my third Sewaholic Granville (see here and here) in Art Gallery voile.  There's not a lot to say about it by now.  If you don't own the pattern, buy it.  And then make it over and over. 



Colette Aster

It didn't take me long to figure out that fabric choice has a lot to do with the success of your garment. Despite that knowledge, I have been wondering for several months how a blouse would turn out in quilting cotton.  Once the idea entered my brain it wouldn't leave!  Just think of all of the possibilities if it turned out! There is no end to the great prints in quilting cottons.  And they have such great names!  You never see a silk/wool blend with a name like this on the selvage. 

I went with a higher end quilting cotton thinking my chances would be better that way. I'm going to give this top a grade of "sort of OK" in regards to fabric choice. I think the main issue for me is the draping, or lack thereof. 

Do you see the thing going on in the lower back? I didn't do a muslin and I forgot that I need to do a swayback adjustment to all Colette Patterns.  It looks really boxy in the back and I think that has some to do with the lack of the swayback adjustment but a lot to do with the stiffer fabric.

The Colette Dahlia dress also sticks up at the shoulder area.  I'm not sure if it's the same here, if I stretched something out, or if the quilting cotton is just stiff in that area.  I did something very, very wrong when it came to attaching the bias tape to the front placket.  I think the bias tape is supposed to encompass the front placket when you're done but mine ended up sitting on top of it. 

I have no idea how that happened! My remedy was to pull the bias tape down over the front placket a little bit and stitch in place.  It was very messy looking on the placket that would normally have the buttonholes, so I had to switch the button holes to the other side.

My sleeve plackets are getting better.  Another error occurred when I had way too much sleeve fabric compared to the cuff.  That ended up being a second pleat at the wrist. 

 

There is always a lot of discussion regarding using quilting cottons for garments.  What is my opinion? I wouldn't use it for a loose top again.  It's just a bit too stiff.  I am going to try one more time to sew a Sewaholic Granville in a quilting cotton because it's a more fitted top.  If I don't like that I will officially be in the "no" camp for quilting cottons, although I do maintain my love for all of those prints!

 

As for this pattern, I like it.  It would be a nice, relaxed top in the right material.  I recently saw a woman wearing an emerald green silk top with pleats along the chest.  I'd like to try that with this pattern. Do you ever have the impulse to take pictures of people you don't know so you can remember the design details or fabric choice of what they are wearing?