Wednesday, September 16, 2015

Colette Aster

It didn't take me long to figure out that fabric choice has a lot to do with the success of your garment. Despite that knowledge, I have been wondering for several months how a blouse would turn out in quilting cotton.  Once the idea entered my brain it wouldn't leave!  Just think of all of the possibilities if it turned out! There is no end to the great prints in quilting cottons.  And they have such great names!  You never see a silk/wool blend with a name like this on the selvage. 
I went with a higher end quilting cotton thinking my chances would be better that way. I'm going to give this top a grade of "sort of OK" in regards to fabric choice. I think the main issue for me is the draping, or lack thereof. 
Do you see the thing going on in the lower back? I didn't do a muslin and I forgot that I need to do a swayback adjustment to all Colette Patterns.  It looks really boxy in the back and I think that has some to do with the lack of the swayback adjustment but a lot to do with the stiffer fabric.
The Colette Dahlia dress also sticks up at the shoulder area.  I'm not sure if it's the same here, if I stretched something out, or if the quilting cotton is just stiff in that area.  I did something very, very wrong when it came to attaching the bias tape to the front placket.  I think the bias tape is supposed to encompass the front placket when you're done but mine ended up sitting on top of it. 
I have no idea how that happened! My remedy was to pull the bias tape down over the front placket a little bit and stitch in place.  It was very messy looking on the placket that would normally have the buttonholes, so I had to switch the button holes to the other side.
My sleeve plackets are getting better.  Another error occurred when I had way too much sleeve fabric compared to the cuff.  That ended up being a second pleat at the wrist. 
There is always a lot of discussion regarding using quilting cottons for garments.  What is my opinion? I wouldn't use it for a loose top again.  It's just a bit too stiff.  I am going to try one more time to sew a Sewaholic Granville in a quilting cotton because it's a more fitted top.  If I don't like that I will officially be in the "no" camp for quilting cottons, although I do maintain my love for all of those prints!
As for this pattern, I like it.  It would be a nice, relaxed top in the right material.  I recently saw a woman wearing an emerald green silk top with pleats along the chest.  I'd like to try that with this pattern. Do you ever have the impulse to take pictures of people you don't know so you can remember the design details or fabric choice of what they are wearing?

Wednesday, September 2, 2015

Closet Case Files Carolyn Pajamas

This pattern was used in the Super Online Sewing Match and it seemed like just the pattern for me. I didn't pay a lot of attention to detail since they obviously won't be worn outside, but when I finished I was left wishing I would have focused more.  My piping around the collar is a hot mess that I can't even bring myself to take a picture of.  The collar is the only place that I basted the piping to one side before sewing the two pieces together.  It seems like that would produce a better result, but it didn't.  I get much better results just pinning it all together and sewing with no basting.  I didn't care at first, but I was disappointed in the collar piping after I attached the facing piping and realized it was going to be cute.  I guess the lesson learned is that you always need to do your best!
I used Cotton+Steel double gauze.  It's very soft and I have trouble keeping it from stretching while it feeds through the machine.  I'm not sure if a walking foot would help with the stretching and feeding issues, but I've wanted to buy one and they're on sale this month at the Bernina store so this would provide a good excuse.  I do like double gauze and I believe I'll use it again in the future, but my finishing leaves a bit to be desired.

It's hard to figure out how to pose in pajamas.  I used to make quilts and I decided to throw a couple over my fence as a backdrop.  I miss making them, but once I started making garments that was the end of the quilts.  I would love to make time to make another one, but I only like labor intensive patterns that take me years to finish.  Do you quilt?