Sewaholic Renfrew: My first knit project + Several positive comments about Craftsy's Sewing Fashion Knits course

 

 

 

It took me several hours to figure out why I am so insanely proud of the plain V-neck t-shirt I'm modeling in these pictures.  My last couple of projects have been labor intensive wool coats that I have a lot of love for, so I was thinking that this project would be a bit of a let down.  Wrong! When I became obsessed with learning to sew and then joined the RTW fast, I wondered what I was going to do when I needed to replace something simple like a t-shirt.  The answer: Just sit down for a little bit and sew it!  It turns out that you actually CAN sew all your own clothes.  Sometimes it's the little epiphanies that make you the happiest and proudest.

 

There is nothing I can say about sewing this pattern that hasn't been said a million times already.  The purpose of this post is for anyone who is as afraid of knits as I once was.  Don't be!  Holy smokes it's easy!  I wish I had recorded actual sewing time, but that would be hard for me.  I don't know about anyone else, but I can sometimes get a little sidetracked when a text comes through, or someone (ok, one person) hollers at me on Voxer, or I stop to pet my cat, or I go to look something up on the internet and get sidetracked on Yahoo.  Even though this was my first time sewing with a knit I bet actually sewing time was between 1-2 hours including when I had to run to the computer for help.

I had a truckload of anxiety about sewing with knits even though 75% of the stuff I normally wear is a knit. I've had the pattern for months but I thought learning knits would be like learning a foreign language so I avoided it.   I hopped on Craftsy and watched Linda Lee's Sewing Fashion Knits: Beyond The Basics before I even cracked open my pattern.  It was extremely helpful and if you are new to knits I HIGHLY recommend it.  She breaks down preparing fabric, cutting and marking, seam finishes, stabilizing knits, hem finishes and edge finishes.  She takes you through different ways that you can do each of those things.  After watching it through I started to get super confident and thought to myself,  "That doesn't seem that hard.  I probably won't even have to refer back to this class once I start sewing."  Just to be clear, I made it to the second set of steps in the pattern instructions regarding sewing on the neckband before I had to go running back to Linda for help.  She didn't fail me.  Thankfully you can watch the Craftsy classes as many times as you want because I'll be going to Linda's class a lot.

For my bands, I opted to sew on the band, serge the raw edge for a more professional look, and then use a double needle to stitch on both sides of the seam line.  I have to confess that I used to be intimidated when people said they used a twin needle.  Using a twin needle involves buying one, inserting it in your needle slot, threading it, and sewing like normal.  It's that simple.

There are many more knits in my future!  Don't be afraid.  You can do it!

Colette Albion

 

 

 

 Disclaimer: I'm pretty sure they don't teach any of the techniques discussed here in sewing school. 

 

Ahhh, the Colette Albion.  As my husband said last night, sewing this coat was an emotional roller coaster ride for me.  And for him.  I won't lie.  At one point he asked me why I was staring off into space at the dinner table and I said, "Oh I'm just thinking about what to do about that damn coat."  I don't want to ask him how many times I walked into the living room and said, "I hate this coat! It's terrible!" and then walked back into the same living room the next day and said, "I think I'm really going to like my new coat."

 

I initially wasn't going to buy the Albion pattern.  Even though I spend a lot of time in the woods with my kids and the pattern launch was very woodsy, I know from experience that I really don't care for unisex styles.  However, I do love Colette contests (and their patterns, and their blog, and their new sewalongs website, their e-books and pretty much anything else having to do with Colette patterns because that's how I've been learning to sew!).  I went foraging for inspiration on Pinterest and came across this little number.  Could I attempt to copy a $995 Burberry duffel coat?  Sure I could.  Even if it meant sewing multiple extra seams.  Plus I discovered with my Hawthorn that I really like to copycat things I see on the internet. 

 

I ordered a toffee wool flannel from Mood but when it arrived it was very beige-y and I wasn't in love with it.  Enter the burnt orange fabric you see in the above picture. 

 

 

 

I purchased this fabric 2 years ago (I think) during a serious fabric buying binge at Kaplan's Fabrics.  Sadly, they just went out of business.  It is the most lovely shade of burnt orange and is very thick but also pretty drapey.  I don't know what kind of wool it is but it feels almost like velvet.  Does anyone know?  It was extremely expensive and luxurious and I was afraid to use it.  I would unfold it to pet it occasionally, but that's as far as I got.  When I was searching Mood for a different fabric, the orange on my shelf caught my eye and I decided to go with it.

 

I made four muslins.  Let me say that again: I made four muslins.  You get one sideways picture of my initial muslin because I cannot figure out how to make it turn.  As for the subsequent muslins, there are no pictures and it's probably better that way.  I'm not sure I want to re-live all of that.

 

My first muslin was the XS with no alterations.  It was much bigger than I thought it would be and that's when I got a little scared.  Modifications to a pattern are not my strong suit.

 

 

 

I had a terrible time figuring out the zipper on my initial muslin.  The part that threw me was how the left side of the zipper is exposed on the left panel.  That's where the Sewalongs site was so helpful.  You ask and someone answers! After my initial muslin, I took 1.5 inches off the waist on my pattern piece and did a narrow shoulder adjustment of about an inch and a 1/4.  I also attempted to take quite a bit off the sleeves using the adjustment method outlined in the Albion e-book.  Ouch that was hard.  More on my solution to that later.

 

For my second muslin, I sewed up the alterations I made to the initial one.  The waist was suitable but the sleeves were a mess and the back was too roomy. 

 

For my third muslin, I cut the seams for the front top panel, the waist seams and the seams for the back panels as well as another shot at the sleeves.  I'm not sure if you are supposed to follow some logic to making seams in a pattern where there aren't any, but I chose to just cut into my pattern pieces where I thought it looked nice and add a 5/8 seam allowance to each piece.  Worked for me!  For the billowy back part, I graded in the center piece to about 3/4 of an inch at the waistline because there was going to be a seam there anyway.  Had there not been a seam I suppose I would have had to do a swayback adjustment. 

 

As for the sleeves, I read somewhere on the internet that if you're having trouble with sleeves you should use the sleeves from another pattern that you like as a reference.  Instead of using them as a reference, I decided to just substitute the sleeve pattern pieces from another pattern.  Which pattern?  My Anise, of course.  I LOVE that pattern.  Are you supposed to do that?  I'm sure there's probably something technically wrong with how they set in comparison to the rest of the coat but, again, it worked for me and I'm pleased with the outcome.  I lifted the underarm on the Albion pattern by an inch and the Anise sleeves set in there just fine.  The fourth muslin was only for the sleeves. 

 

After four muslins I decided that any further adjustments would have to be done when I was sewing it.  Four was quite enough.  The only thing I ended up doing was starting the grading on the waist an inch under my armole.  When I graded in the waist only the sides near my chest were just too big.

 

 

 

 

I like how the seams jazz up the back.  I also think the front seam makes it look like a dressier jacket.



 

When I sewed with the fashion fabric, I decided that I wanted to install the zipper between the front panel and the facing.  I used this tutorial posted on the Sewalongs site.  http://www.jane-sews.com/2014/02/albion-zipper-tutorial.html. It's a great tutorial. Unfortunately, I did not factor in that moving my zipper meant I would have way over an inch of space across my chest.  When I tried it on after sewing it all together it was very big across the chest.  After despairing for an hour about how my coat was ruined and my husband gently trying to talk me into giving it all up so I could get on with my life, I decided to rip the left zipper out and sew it to the outside of the left panel like it says in the Albion e-book.  I initially thought I would care that it was exposed. If you are worried about that look, I can tell you that I've worn the coat multiple times and it's a non-issue.  You really can't see it when it's zipped and the toggles are buttoned.  The toggles are from Dritz in brown and I bought them online from www.CreateForLess.com. 

 

 

 

I don't plan to walk around with my coat unzipped much either.  This is what it looks like open:

 

 

 

Since my coat is form fitting, I didn't want a flannel lining because I thought it would catch on my pants.  I opted to go for a Liberty of London tana lawn for my lining fabric.  The pattern matched the orange so well I couldn't resist. I would love to order more of the print and use it for a dress.  It's really sweet.

 

 

I opted not to sew on the hood closure.  I'm not sure how much I'll use my hood since I like to wear a hat and I didn't want the tab flopping around.

 

 

The buttons:

 

 

 

This is what my photo shoots really look like:

 

 

 

It is just so COLD.  And speaking of cold, I became obsessed with the fact that my toggles were crooked in my initial photographs so I made my oldest son venture out in THREE degree weather to take pictures of the toggles fastened straight.  Do I look cold?  Because I am.

 

 

 

 

In the end, I'm pleased with my coat.  It was a beast of a project but I like how it turned out. Wish me luck in the contest!

 

 

 

 

 





 

 



 

 

 

 





Colette Anise #2

This is my second go-round with the Colette Anise.  The first one I made last year in corduroy.  It was a strange fabric choice for this jacket but the salesperson at the shop assured me it would be OK.  I don't hate that one, but I like this one much better.  I bought the Anise Companion which makes sewing this jacket very easy.  It gives you a day-by-day plan to finish your jacket in 8 days.  I decided to take 22 days instead.

My parents take each grandkid on a trip after they graduate 8th grade for a treat.  My son and my niece both graduated this year so they planned their trip together to Los Angeles.  I invited myself along and the kids graciously allowed me to stop by Mood LA.  I read reviews on-line that the employees are not so nice, but my experience could not have been more enjoyable.  That probably had something to do with Jose Manuel Gonzales.  He was the nicest salesperson EVER. Ask for him if you go there.  He also teaches classes.  By the way, this was about as well behaved as my son and niece were in the store.  However, it's one of my favorite pictures from our trip.

 

 

I knew I would be overwhelmed by the fabric choices so I went with a list.  Written at the top was "Teal wool = Anise?"  The minute I stepped in the aisle I saw the bolt and loved it.  The $35/yard price tag initially did not love me back.  I can't remember the designer (Carolina Herrera maybe?) but it's a wool/cashmere blend.  I walked around the store trying to decide if I should purchase it or not.  Obviously it came home with me on the plane!  I'm glad it did.  Fabric matters.

 

 

Since I forked over major bucks for the main fabric I was shy about purchasing another expensive fabric for the lining.  Jose found this polyester blend and I love how they look together.  I am a little nervous about how the polyester will handle dry cleaning.  I might not be opening my jacket in public.

I did a swayback adjustment on my initial Anise last year.  I have a long torso and the first one is too short.  I kept the same pattern pieces for this version but I added 2 inches of length.  I don't know if you are supposed to do that after you do a swayback adjustment, but it worked for me.

 

 

I did bound buttonholes for all 8 buttons. 

 

 

 

 

I made my own covered buttons.  It could not have been easier and I will do it again for other projects.  I used the Dritz kit that I found at Hancocks.  I initially wanted to use the wool to make the buttons but it is way too thick.  I was going to opt for a teal cotton from my stash that was suitable.  The day I was going to make the buttons I went to my local Bernina dealer to buy a ruffle foot for the 2nd or 3rd project in my queue.  Fat quarters of teal silk were in a basket by the register and they turned out to be a perfect fit. 

 

This jacket was definitely an investment in time and money but I'm going to wear it for a long time!

 



 





Sewing Goals for the New Year

I sewed my first A-line skirt in March 2012. Since then I've sewn several clothing items but have never felt like I have a clear sewing plan that fits my lifestyle.  What better time to form a vision than the New Year?  I stay at home with my kids so I need clothing that is realistic for that lifestyle but still looks pulled together.  I live in the Midwest where the weather is constantly changing so I think it will be easiest for me to stay on top of my goals if I break them down by seasons.

Winter 2014:

1. Colette Anise: My first project is going to be a Colette Anise in a teal wool/cashmere.  I know I just said I need clothing that is realistic for a stay-at-home mom, but I bought this fabric at Mood in LA over the summer and I have been dying to turn it into an Anise. I'll just look extra dressy at Toddler Open Gym.

2. Grainline Archer shirt:  Instead of throwing on a cotton t-shirt and cardigan I would love to put on a button-up and cardigan.  I have the pattern and the fabric and it's second in my queue.

3. Sewaholic Renfrew: I've had this pattern for quite awhile but haven't managed to produce one because I'm afraid of my serger and sewing with knits.  I've purchased a Craftsy class for the occasion as well as the fabric.  Now I just need the nerve.

4. Jean-ius: I have a habit of hoarding Craftsy classes but then never actually viewing them.  This was the first one I purchased.  If I can somehow figure out how to reproduce my skinny jeans from Gap I would be over the moon!

Big goals for winter and only a few more months to accomplish them!

Spring/Summer 2014:

1. Sewaholic Saltspring: At first I wasn't that excited about this pattern but when I saw the versions popping up around the blogosphere I decided I would like it.  I have rayon challis ready for this one. 

2. Sewaholic Cambie: I made a muslin of this over the summer but got derailed by other projects.  My first version is going to be in a rayon challis I already have purchased.  I have not one but TWO weddings (one in May and the other in June) this year.  If the dress comes together I'm going to try to make two more for the weddings.  My current plan is to use a dark silver silk georgette from Mood for one.  Nothing like aiming high......

3. Sewaholic Thurlows: Continuing with my Sewaholic theme, Thurlow shorts with a Renfrew top would work wonderful for a summer uniform. 

4. Colette patterns: I'm not sure how fast I'll be sewing, but I would love to make another Parfait or try out the Lily dress. 


Fall 2014:

The only item I'm adding for fall is a coat using a burnt orange wool I bought last year.  I'm going to wait and see what patterns come up this year!

Advent Pocket Calendar

I'm in the middle of several Christmas projects.  I've had my eye on several advent calendars on Pottery Barn but they always sell out before I can pull the trigger.  I found this pocket Advent calendar on Etsy and decided I like the design better because I don't have to hang it on the wall and risk the kids getting into it (or ripping it off the wall) when I'm not looking. 

It was easy to construct.  You make the pockets out of 25 4x12 strips of wool felt folded into a pocket and embroidered with numbers.  Easy! The embroidered numbers and buttons add some hand sewing but it's still a quick project to complete. 

Polka Dot Minoru

I finally made a Minoru!  I wanted to make this months ago but never got around to it.  It's a good thing I didn't because I recently found this navy and white polka dot polyester fabric online at Mood and it's perfect for this jacket.  It's a nice quality reversible polyester that is easy to press and easy to sew.  I love it!  The top is a size 4.  The midsection is a size 6.  The bottom is a size 2 but I could have gone down to a 0 simply because I'm not pear shaped (not because I'm a size 0).

These is nothing to say about the Minoru that hasn't been said already.  It's a great every day jacket with easy to follow instructions.  I did French seams everywhere but where I attached the collar to the main jacket.  I added inseam pockets using the Burdastyle tutorial and figured out how to sew them with a French seam using Debra Moebes tutorial over at Sew Mama Sew.  My pockets are at a comfortable place for my hands but I should have put them in an inch or so higher because they run into the hem. 



You can see the reversible side on the wrong side of the hood (sort of). 

 

 

The back:

 

The lining is a bright gold polyester satin from Hobby Lobby.

 

The jacket was completed 48 hours ago and already I've worn it walking my dog Winston.....

...cheering on the KC Chiefs to a victory...

...and hanging out at the pumpkin patch.

Make a Minoru today.  You won't be disappointed!

 





 

Advanced Means Advanced: The Henry Shirt

 

 

 

This is my version of The Henry Shirt from the book Sewing For Boys.  This is my first project from the book and I think it was a big success even though I almost wasn't smart enough to figure out certain steps of the pattern.  I am not an advanced sewer.  When I saw the pattern was marked as advanced I thought, "How hard can a shirt possibly be?" Everything was smooth sailing until I got to the steps attaching the yoke and sleeves.  I sat and stared at this shirt FOREVER to try to figure out how to put it together.  I'm including pictures and details for attaching the yoke and sleeves at the end of this post to help out anybody else who might be struggling while reading this! I'm not a sewing teacher.  It's just what worked for me.

 

The main fabric is a 2010 Alexander Henry called "Crayon Commute."  I purchased it at Sarah's Fabrics and unfortunately I bought the last of it.  I also purchased the gingham fabric at Sarah's.  Both are quilting weight cottons but they are such a nice weight that the shirts turned out to look and feel really sharp. 



Somebody didn't want to smile for pictures but I'm not naming names.  The shirts are pretty boxy so I think they will look best over jeans and a long sleeve shirt.  It's not jeans weather today so we're in shorts.

I like the box pleat in back.

And the contrast fabric on the sides.

Checking out his cars!

Now for the construction details.  I used French seams to attach the back and front panels to the sides.  I like how you can barely see the seams when you look inside the shirt. The shirts are so boxy that instead of the 3/8 inch seam the pattern calls for I used a 1/2 inch seam which made each part of the French seam 1/4 inch.

 

 

This is when stuff got tricky.  This is what Step 15 looks like.  Honestly I was so confused that I couldn't figure out what the underarm seam was.  Should I admit that?

 



 

 

You start in the center back and sew out to each sleeve instead of sewing in one continuous loop so I am just showing one side. Start by matching up the center seam on the yoke with your pleat seam.  Put a couple of pins in for a few inches but stop when you get close to the shoulder and look at the next picture.

 

 

 

Turn your sleeve inside out to get the right side of this point on the yoke (marked with the pencil)

 

 

 

To match the right side of this point on the main body of your shirt (marked with pencil)

 

 

 

Pin those two points together (right sides together). Then I tucked the sleeve inside the side panel so that the right side of the sleeve seam matched up with the bottom of the V on the side panel.

 

 

 

Pin the right side of the sleeve seam to the bottom of the V.  Now that you have those two points pinned, you should be able to see clearly where to put the rest of your pins in between the pins you've already used and start sewing. These are the best pictures I could get of the finished product.

 

 

 

Figuring out how to attach the lining is much easier because you start again at the center back and just follow your original stitching line with shirt body between the outer yoke/sleeve and the yoke/sleeve lining.  I had a terrible time figuring out how to sew in one continuous line so this is my best advice: Stitch from the center back to the underarm seam.  Then twist your fabric into a jumbled mess by pulling the sleeves in opposite directions to get right sides together for the rest of the sleeve. And yes this is the best picture I could get!   

 

 

 

Keep at it if you are a beginner/advanced beginner/ intermediate sewer like me because the end results are cute.  I picked up some cheap buttons at WalMart that I thought were perfect for this shirt. And I don't think they look cheap.

 

 

 

 

Overall I'm happy with this shirt.  There are no exposed seams inside and the construction details are really nice once you get the hang of it.  Happy sewing!