2015 Wrap Up! My 5 Favorites

I love year-end wrap ups! I didn't sew as much this year as I did last year, but I did go way outside my usual sewing zone which feels pretty productive. My favorites:

I have a lot of love for the Deer&Doe Pavot jacket with the triangular buttonholes.  I highly recommend the pattern.  It's a great spring coat. 

McCalls 6506 was my first ever make from a Big-4 pattern (I'm not kidding) and it turned out really well.  My fabric choice ended up feeling a little dressier than I was going for initially, so I'll probably revisit this pattern next summer in a more casual fabric. 

I've made the Sewaholic Granville three times now, so it definitely makes the cut for favorites.  This was my first. 

I ventured into the world of Spandex with the Closet Case Files Bombshell swimsuit and I have to admit it wasn't all that bad. 

I only have one Sewaholic Oakridge but I love wearing it.  Such a happy print!

Overall I'm pleased with the work I produced.  I participated in the Goodbye Valentino RTW fast for two years and that had a very positive impact on my sewing skills.  A big bright world opens up when the focus shifts to making instead of buying. 

I Made An Outfit!

 

 

I'm trying to make more of an effort to make pieces that go together instead of random pieces that don't quite mesh with the other things in my closet. I made a Colette Moneta awhile ago that I was planning to wear with tights in the winter, but I never wear it in the winter because I didn't make the red cardigan that would look best with it.  This time I picked three patterns and three fabrics and went to work.

The cardigan is the Seamwork Oslo in ponte knit.  I'm underwhelmed by it.  I was roped in by the promise of completing it in 2 hours, so I overlooked the fact that it's really not my style.  I tend to like things with a little shape to them and the Oslo is the opposite of that.  I cut a size small but the finished result was not great.  I chopped 4 inches off the bottom (which made it too short) and took in the sides a bit but it still doesn't work for me.

I made pants! This is my first ever pair of pants and I feel pretty good about it.  Since I'm a novice I find myself in the position of not being able to tell what might be wrong with them or what I should do differently, but I'm trusting that I'll figure that out as I sew more pants.  I do know that they are the most comfortable pair of pants I own right now and I don't find myself repeatedly pulling them up at the waist all day.  I used the Sewaholic Thurlow pattern and Lladybird's tutorial which is so helpful. 

There are wrinkles on the backs of my legs but I did read that you need some excess fabric there in order to be able to sit down.  I'm not sure if I have too many wrinkles.  Thoughts? In the picture they look tight in the bum but they don't feel that way when I wear them.  The material is very cotton-y and has quite a bit of stretch but was labeled denim on Mood.  I'm pretty clueless about choosing denim on-line but I think I'll get the hang of it with experience.

I think my fly went together pretty well for my first try.  I can zip my pants so I think this is what it's supposed to look like. 

My welts went together well but one of them came apart on one side when I washed them.  I'll have to take extra care next time.  I've definitely got room to improve but for my first shot at pants I'm pleased!

And last but not least we have my third Sewaholic Granville (see here and here) in Art Gallery voile.  There's not a lot to say about it by now.  If you don't own the pattern, buy it.  And then make it over and over. 



Colette Aster

It didn't take me long to figure out that fabric choice has a lot to do with the success of your garment. Despite that knowledge, I have been wondering for several months how a blouse would turn out in quilting cotton.  Once the idea entered my brain it wouldn't leave!  Just think of all of the possibilities if it turned out! There is no end to the great prints in quilting cottons.  And they have such great names!  You never see a silk/wool blend with a name like this on the selvage. 

I went with a higher end quilting cotton thinking my chances would be better that way. I'm going to give this top a grade of "sort of OK" in regards to fabric choice. I think the main issue for me is the draping, or lack thereof. 

Do you see the thing going on in the lower back? I didn't do a muslin and I forgot that I need to do a swayback adjustment to all Colette Patterns.  It looks really boxy in the back and I think that has some to do with the lack of the swayback adjustment but a lot to do with the stiffer fabric.

The Colette Dahlia dress also sticks up at the shoulder area.  I'm not sure if it's the same here, if I stretched something out, or if the quilting cotton is just stiff in that area.  I did something very, very wrong when it came to attaching the bias tape to the front placket.  I think the bias tape is supposed to encompass the front placket when you're done but mine ended up sitting on top of it. 

I have no idea how that happened! My remedy was to pull the bias tape down over the front placket a little bit and stitch in place.  It was very messy looking on the placket that would normally have the buttonholes, so I had to switch the button holes to the other side.

My sleeve plackets are getting better.  Another error occurred when I had way too much sleeve fabric compared to the cuff.  That ended up being a second pleat at the wrist. 

 

There is always a lot of discussion regarding using quilting cottons for garments.  What is my opinion? I wouldn't use it for a loose top again.  It's just a bit too stiff.  I am going to try one more time to sew a Sewaholic Granville in a quilting cotton because it's a more fitted top.  If I don't like that I will officially be in the "no" camp for quilting cottons, although I do maintain my love for all of those prints!

 

As for this pattern, I like it.  It would be a nice, relaxed top in the right material.  I recently saw a woman wearing an emerald green silk top with pleats along the chest.  I'd like to try that with this pattern. Do you ever have the impulse to take pictures of people you don't know so you can remember the design details or fabric choice of what they are wearing?







Closet Case Files Carolyn Pajamas

This pattern was used in the Super Online Sewing Match and it seemed like just the pattern for me. I didn't pay a lot of attention to detail since they obviously won't be worn outside, but when I finished I was left wishing I would have focused more.  My piping around the collar is a hot mess that I can't even bring myself to take a picture of.  The collar is the only place that I basted the piping to one side before sewing the two pieces together.  It seems like that would produce a better result, but it didn't.  I get much better results just pinning it all together and sewing with no basting.  I didn't care at first, but I was disappointed in the collar piping after I attached the facing piping and realized it was going to be cute.  I guess the lesson learned is that you always need to do your best!

I used Cotton+Steel double gauze.  It's very soft and I have trouble keeping it from stretching while it feeds through the machine.  I'm not sure if a walking foot would help with the stretching and feeding issues, but I've wanted to buy one and they're on sale this month at the Bernina store so this would provide a good excuse.  I do like double gauze and I believe I'll use it again in the future, but my finishing leaves a bit to be desired.

It's hard to figure out how to pose in pajamas.  I used to make quilts and I decided to throw a couple over my fence as a backdrop.  I miss making them, but once I started making garments that was the end of the quilts.  I would love to make time to make another one, but I only like labor intensive patterns that take me years to finish.  Do you quilt?

Christine Haynes Sylvie Dress

When you read this post it's going to seem like I don't like this pattern or the dress but that's not true.  Promise.

I follow Christine Haynes on Bloglovin' and Instagram but this is the first time I've sewn one of her patterns.  I like anything with a gathered skirt and big pocket bags, and the very simple neckline seemed like it would be good for every day wear. 

The sewing itself was very straight forward but the fit was a disaster for me.  It's still not where I want it but it will have to do. Based on my measurements I chose a size 6 in the chest and graded to an 8 right on top of the waistband.  My muslin seemed a little loose fitting but I was OK with it because form fitting bodices in the summer in Kansas aren't always the best choice.  I used Cotton+Steel double gauze for my main version (which is a good choice, by the way). 

When I put the zipper in and tried it on it was way too big.  I did French seams throughout the dress and felt my only viable option at that point was to take off fabric at the center back.  I probably removed a good 2 inches off each side of the back. 

I guess I stretched the neckline when I was working or maybe when I was handsewing the binding.  I staystitched but it appears that didn't work. 

Do you see the little ledge that sits above the waistband?  I believe that's from when I graded the from the 6 to the 8.  Fixing it would have involved a lot of unpicking that I wasn't sure I would be able to put back together correctly. You can also see how loose it is in the back. 

Do you like my gathers?! I used the dental floss method (sewing a long zig zag stitch over a strand of dental floss and then pulling it to gather).  I don't know why it works.  All I know is that it was quick and easy and I'm always doing it. 

On a bright note, I love the fabric. I've wanted to hand embroider on a garment and decided the pockets would be an easy way to do that.  Originally I had a Sublime Stitching iron on transfer but I ruined it while ironing so I had to go with Plan B which was the old reliable Aunt Martha's. 

After all the complaining, I am happy to say that I will actually end up wearing this dress quite often.  It's too bad when things don't turn out the way you had hoped but that's where the learning comes in!

Last year I was more interested in summer sewing.  This year I'm more interested in fall/winter sewing.  Even taking the summer pictures felt like, "Let's get this done as quick as possible and go back home" but I find myself looking around town for photo venues for winter plans. 

Deer & Doe Datura #2

Yes, you've seen this fabric before.  I just can't resist this Liberty print! I had enough left over from my Parfait to make another Datura because the yardage requirements are small.  It's also the lining to my Albion coat in case anybody is keeping tabs.  My first Datura is here.

 



I struggled deciding what fabric to choose for the yokes.  Originally I went with a solid orange but it was the wrong color.  Then I tried to pull out the blue flowers with a bright blue fabric but it didn't look right.  The green was my third choice.  Maybe I could have found something better but honestly I was tired of looking.

The corded piping is a bright orange wool crepe that is leftover from a skirt project I never wear.  When I have a sizable portion of fabric left over from a project, I always think I need to hang on to it.  Rarely do I ever use anything, but this was a perfect match.  It's almost neon orange by itself but when I put it with this top it looks ok. 

 

This is an easy enough top to put together, but I don't understand the shoulder seam construction at all so I skipped it.  I put the front yoke inside the back, started sewing where the neckline seam began and ended where the armhole line is.  I turned it right side out and it was fine.  The inside yoke is slipstitched in place, as is the inside of the green bias tape along the hem. 

 

Is anybody else participating in the Sew Mama Sew Community Sewing Match?  I'm tagging this one for it on Instagram.  Look up the contest if you've never heard of it! The contestants are on a deadline but the rest of us watching can play along at home until the end of August. 





Closet Case Files Bombshell Swimsuit

I once purchased a swimsuit from JCrew in the size I buy clothing in.  Big mistake. I managed to get it on but I honestly thought I was going to have to call someone over to my house to help me get out of it, like maybe a paramedic.  It was that tight.  The next year JCrew made a big announcement about how they were going to start selling swimsuits in sizes that corresponded to clothing sizes like it was the brightest idea ever. 

 

 

I'm very late to the Bombshell party and I have nothing to add that isn't already on the blogosphere or the very detailed sewalong on the Closet Case Files site. It's a great swimsuit pattern that is very flattering, which is something everybody says so it must be true, right?!

The peacock fabric makes another appearance here. It doesn't really have a retro vibe but I think the colors are very pretty.  There is a lot of gathering on this pattern which makes it very flattering but took me a long time to complete.  I love to wear gathers but I find them tedious to make.  I never can seem to make them even.  Do you see how it's nice and gathered around my waist in the above picture but then looks like I got tired and bored around the bum?

This was my first experience paddle boarding.  I loved it even though I was only on the board long enough to get the pictures. 

I'm done with spandex for awhile.  It's not really my favorite to sew with but when you need a new suit and you're a RTW faster you don't have many options.  I've missed wovens.  My next make is a woven and I find myself being more excited to sew because of the change in material. 

Anybody else making a swimsuit this season?  Or paddle boarding?!