Sewaholic Granville #2

I tried to switch up my photo location by standing in front of a barn in the haze and wind.  I think I might just stick to my little wall from now on.  It never lets me down.

I had to squeeze in one last Granville before I start warm weather sewing. I don't have anything new to add, except saying that I don't think I'll get tired of making these or wearing them.   I love a gray/mustard combination in just about anything.  This was supposed to be a nice relaxing sew after my Pavot coat that took an entire month to complete, but I got compulsive about sewing over the last couple of days and stayed up way too late finishing. 

I did two new things with this version: tailors tacks on the bust darts and flat-felling the arm seam.  I think tailors tacks are probably most accurate, but I think I've decided I like drawing on my dart lines better because it gives me a line to follow.  And I had no idea how fiddly the flat-fell seam is on an armhole.  Is it just me or does that take forever? Was I just impatient?

As you can tell, I still have swayback issues which is extra sad because I did a swayback adjustment to the pattern (or so I thought).  I know the point of sewing your own clothes is to get a great fit but I was too lazy to try to fix it for this shirt.  Next time?  Or maybe never? Only time will tell.

The fabric is another Liberty print that I've been hoarding for several months.  The purpose of these next photos is to show my attempt at pattern matching on the pocket flaps.  It's not perfect but I'm satisfied with it.  May and Patrick are always talking about that on The Great British Sewing Bee and so I thought I should give it a go instead of slapping a pocket flap on there and hoping for the best. (***As an aside, I couldn't figure out how people were watching TGBSB season 2 because I couldn't find it when I searched YouTube on my laptop.  I noticed other people struggling as well. Then I thought to use my phone and there it was! Is that a browser issue? I don't know the lingo but help spread the word!)

When I uploaded these pictures I realized they highlighted an issue I had with this fabric.  If you look closely at the stitch lines you can see little loops.  Those don't normally occur with other fabrics.  Does anyone have ideas on why that might be occurring? I messed with tension and inserted a new needle with no luck.  I sew with a Bernina.

Me-Made-May '15

So, Zo..What Do You Know hosts an activity called the Me-Made-May challenge every May.  The objective is to wear one handmade garment every day for the month of May and document it on social networking sites.  Last year I barely had any handmade items so I pledged to wear handmade twice a week.  I was a flurry of sewing activity last summer due to being a RTW Faster, so I've counted 16 warm-weather handmade garments in my closet (so far!).  This year I'm taking the plunge and pledging to wear a handmade garment each day of May.  I'm also going to focus on completing a pair of jeans in May.  I may regret saying that.  If I don't post the finished product by May 31st, kindly forget I ever mentioned it. 

I'm not sure how I'll be documenting this but I know it won't be with a blog post every day.  The Flickr group, perhaps?

In other news, I very recently started an Evolution of a Sewing Goddess Instagram page.  I have one post.  One.  Tune in because you don't want to miss anything! Maybe I'll use Instagram to document Me-Made-May?!

Deer & Doe Pavot Jacket

I think once a year I'm going to take a relatively easy coat pattern and add a bunch of design features that are way above my ability level.  Last year it was the Albion duffel coat.  This year it's the Deer & Doe Pavot jacket.  A contestant on the first season of The Great British Sewing Bee is working his way through a challenge and he says, "God loves a trier."  I had never heard the phrase before but it entered my brain again as I was attempting triangular buttonholes and a lining.

I first saw triangular buttonholes on Pinterest, which referenced  The Bishop Method of Clothing Construction from 1959.  I couldn't work out the instructions in the book and so I was pleasantly surprised when I learned that the Craftsy course Couture Finishing Techniques with Alison Smith has a section on triangular buttonholes.  She also offers instruction on circular buttonholes.  I attempted to make up a flower buttonhole on my own with no success.  She remarks that you should stick with one or two triangular buttonholes on a jacket.  I thought to myself, "I wonder why she said that.  Oh well.  I think I'll do seven."

I tried and tried to get the little puckers out of the corners of the triangle but couldn't pull it off.  I think it had something to do with the fabric I used because on my practice run with muslin I had no issues.  At some point you have to stop fiddling and move towards acceptance.  I do like them though.

I used a gabardine from Mood Fabrics for the body and a wool flannel for the collar (which is unfortunately sticking up in the picture--you can't win them all).  The gabardine was easy to sew with but it's hard to iron out a wrinkle once it's in there.  The lining is a navy-ish acetate also from Mood.  My color inspiration was this coat that Lady Mary wears in Downton Abbey. 

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I am pleased with the fit.  In the pictures it appears that it's tight across the chest but in reality there is a good amount of room.  I didn't make any adjustments to my muslin because I'm getting so much better at measuring beforehand.  There are things that could be better about it (neater buttonholes, better finishing, better handstitching along the hem) but it's a success form me.  I learned a lot and stretched my abilities.  That's always a win, right?

Now for the construction details:

I constructed the entire shell of the coat first, including the facing .  I put in the buttonholes on the front half of the facing and then cut triangles in the back half of the facing as instructed. 

This pattern doesn't include a lining so you have to make your own.  I have never done that before.  Some people say, "I added a lining" like it's no big deal but for me it was a big deal.  If you don't add one the inside of your jacket will look like this (unless you do a different seam finish, of course). 

I used Tilly's tutorial on the Sewaholic website for assistance.  If you look at that first the rest of this will make more sense. 

The front jacket pieces are curved and therefore difficult to tape together.  I marked it little by little as I swung it around from the bottom all the way to the top. 

The facing part was harder to figure out because it folds back on itself and becomes the button band.  I taped the facing on exactly like you would sew it.  You can then feel on top of the paper and trace around the neck facing.  For the front of the coat, I only added 5/8 inch (not 1 1/4 as instructed) and only to the top part of the pattern that is at the neckline.  The inside of the facing extends 5/8 inch past the seamline along the front of the coat, so that's why I didn't add any more to that.  This is what my piece looked like prior to cutting along the single line at the botton and along the middle line at the top:

It was confusing but the measurements worked. 

The back bodice piece is rounded and is also in two pieces.  You are supposed to add an inch to the back bodice to be able to form a pleat in the lining fabric.  After factoring in the 5/8 inch I needed to take out because I was going to put the lining piece on the fold, I added 3/8 inch right in the middle and drew a straight line up from there.  This meant that there was an extra 1/4 inch at the top and bottom but it worked out ok for me. 

For the skirt front, I took off 5/8 inch along the straight front edge because of the facing issue described above.  I did the same for the waistband.

I constructed my entire lining including sleeves prior to putting it in the coat.  I wish I wouldn't have done that.  I intended to follow the protocol used in the Colette Anise jacket I made last year, but then didn't read ahead before construction started.  In that pattern, you sew the body of the lining on first and then hand sew the sleeves along the armhole.  I didn't have that option here because I did French seams throughout my lining.  Instead, I anchored the lining at the top and bottom of the armhole.  I was pleasantly surprised to find that my friend's RTW coat was done exactly like that.  I hand sewed my cuffs as well as hand stitching the hem and the hem of the lining. 

Sewaholic Granville

 

After a particularly bad experience with the Papercut Rigel Bomber in January and some of February (which I'm choosing not to talk about in an attempt to forget it happened), I really needed a successful make.  The Sewaholic Granville shirt is my first time ever making a button up shirt with a collar and collar stand and I was surprised by how much I enjoyed it.  There's just something rewarding about working through all of the different steps. If you're contemplating making the Sewaholic Granville shirt but haven't yet, get to it.  You won't be disappointed.  Believe the hype because it's a great pattern.

I made a muslin with a size 6 in the shoulders and grading down to a 0 right under the bust darts because I'm not a pear shape. My next step was to make what was supposed to be a wearable muslin out of a fabric that I absolutely had to have a year ago and recently decided I didn't like all that much.  I thought the 6 was just a tad too big in the shoulders so I went with the 4 instead.  I had a very hard time conceptualizing the collar and collar stand based on the pattern instructions, and consequently ended up destroying that part of the shirt.  If you get nothing else out of this post, get this: I strongly recommend buying Pam Howard's The Classic Tailored Shirt on Craftsy or consulting some other resource that walks you through sewing the collar and stand together as one unit before attaching it to the shirt.  The Granville Pattern instructions don't do this and it's pretty confusing if it's your first time.  Two different ladies from the RTW Fast on Goodbye Valentino suggested the Craftsy course and I can't recommend it enough, especially for beginners.  I was a little concerned when I noticed the segment for the collar was an hour long, but she is one of those instructors that makes it all seem so easy.  The Sewaholic website has several posts on sewing a collar as one unit, but the fabric used is so busy that I had a hard time figuring out what she was doing.  Buy the class!

My fabric is also busy so it's hard to tell what's happening but my collar and stand turned out crisp and neat and made me very happy. 

Sewing on buttons has not been my strong suit even though it seems like that should be the easiest part.  I end up sewing them in the wrong place a lot and then the shirt looks ill-made.  The Craftsy course gives good pointers on that as well and I had no issues with it this time. 

I skipped the beginning segments and went right to the collar portion because I had already completed the shirt up to that point.  I look forward to going back and watching them for my next Granville.  I also didn't watch the portion on sewing in the sleeves until I had already sewn my side seams with French seams.  Pam Howard sews her sleeves onto the shirt without sewing the side seam or sleeve seams first.  I had to set mine in in-the-round.  Which version do you use? Does it make a difference?  I would obviously prefer to do it her way because it seems easier.  Next time!

My wearable muslin had excessive fabric at the lower back.  Swayback adjustments are common for me.  I thought I fixed it with this version but there is still excess fabric back there.  I need to work on that.

I could not figure out how to do the sleeve plackets on my Oakridge blouse.  The Classic Tailored Shirt from Craftsy uses a sleeve placket similar to the Oakridge blouse so I can reference that next time.  I was able to follow the pattern instructions for this shirt.  They look OK but you'll notice I sewed down further in the final step on my left sleeve as opposed to my right.  Just another thing to perfect for next time!

 

This is definitely a shirt that will become a wardrobe staple.  I know many people frown upon quilting cottons for apparel.  I don't use them myself, but does anybody use nice quality quilting cottons for a shirt like this?  I know it's an endless debate but I'm curious what the thoughts are for a button-up shirt. 

 

 

Sewaholic Oakridge Blouse

Sewaholic recently released two blouse patterns and this is one of them.  The other is the Granville blouse and while I'm planning to sew one soon, the Oakridge is the one I was most excited about because of the bow.  I purchased the Art Gallery fabric awhile ago and I knew right away I wanted to use it for this pattern. 

I purchased this in PDF format. The pattern envelope says you'll need 3 1/4 yards of 45 inch fabric.  I made it out of 2.5 yards.

The blouse is relatively easy to sew but I did get hung up on a few things.  The biggest hurdles for me were the neckline, excess fabric pooling in the back and the sleeve plackets.

I cut a size 6 for my muslin.  I liked the fit in the chest and shoulders but from the chest down it was too large.  I did a swayback adjustment and another muslin but it was still too baggy.  I thought the muslin fabric might be a cause of the problem because of the stiffness but when I cut my actual fabric I realized it was just too big.  I ended up taking in probably an inch on each side from right under the darts to the hemline.  I'm comfortable with the fit now.  I think this is supposed to be a looser style. 

I'm pretty sure I didn't sew the collar right and if I did then I'm not a huge fan of the way it comes together.  Step 10 instructs you to sew the collar to the neckline starting 1 inch into the neckline.  After some blank staring, I finally decided to fold the collar in half lengthwise as instructed, but instead of starting the sew 1 inch into the neckline I started sewing right where the stitching left off that attaches the collar to the neckline.  After I turned the collar right side out it looked like this:

I then slipstitched the collar along the neckline. It looks neat on the inside but when you button the top button the ties overlap before you tie them.  It looks OK after you tie it but it's just a little awkward. If someone else has done this the right way please leave a comment and tell me what I did wrong! 

 

This was my first time sewing a sleeve placket and let's just say I need more practice.  It was another part in the instructions where a lot of staring happened.  I'm not sure how it's supposed to look but I can almost guarantee it isn't supposed to look like this:

 

 

Before you ask, I saw the little X thing done on a RTW button up shirt I own except it's not crooked and wrinkly on that one.  I'll keep practicing.  When I was sewing this shirt it occurred to me that the thing that used to take me FOREVER was sewing a sleeve in the round.  Now I breeze right through that.  Sleeve plackets are my new sleeves. 

 

I realize I've complained a lot about this shirt but I actually like it quite a bit.  Adding blouses to my wardrobe has been a goal since the spring.  I signed up for a Craftsy course to learn to draft my own blouses but was severely lacking in creativity and couldn't come up with a single idea.  Thankfully Sewaholic Patterns came to the rescue. 

 

I would like to try this one in a rayon challis to see how the drape affects the back.  I have seen more people talking about the Granville than the Oakridge so hopefully more Oakridge blouses start popping up.

 

 



 

 

 

 



Sewing Goals for 2015

I love to set sewing goals in the new year even though I know I won't make everything I want to.  There's only so many hours in a day, right?  I surprised myself last year by making things I actually wore a lot and I obviously want to continue that.  In 2014 I divided things up by season because it was easier to wrap my brain around it.  This year I'm starting by listing some cold weather items I want to make.  Then I'll re-group once the weather warms up.  It's hard to plan when you know there will be some new patterns released you'll want to jump on.

• My first make of this year is going to be the Papercut Rigel Bomber. Ginger Makes is coordinating a January Sewalong but I am having a very hard time deciding on fabric. 
• The Deer&Doe Pavot coat is another one I want to sew up in a red wool crepe I've had sitting on my shelf for over a year. 
• Jeans.  UGH.  I purchased the Craftsy Jean-ius course forever ago and actually started watching it in November.  I was trucking along until I got to the muslin part.  I have everything cut out but stopped in my tracks when there was a lack of instruction on how to sew the fly.  I've never made pants before.  I could probably figure it out through tutorials but I don't know how to draft the fly parts.  I want to tackle this beast before spring.
• I never made the Archer shirt last year even though I have the pattern pieces taped together.  A button up shirt would be a good addition to my wardrobe if I ever get around to it.

That's four things.  Four things is reasonable, right? I would also love to make the Grainline Linden sweatshirt in the winter and the Sewaholic Robson coat closer to spring but that might be setting my sights too high. 

I've decided to do the RTW fast through Goodbye Valentino again this year.  It was surprisingly easy not to buy clothes last year.  I did allow myself to buy a pair of tights on January 1st.  Some things don't seem cost effective to make and that was one of them. 

Looking forward to 2015!

2014 End of the Year Roundup

I attempted to make some handmade items for other people in December.  That only ended up being 4 pairs of pajama pants and the beginnings of two stuffed sea horses but hey--I tried.  I have discovered that I really don't like crafty sewing but I am determined to finish those sea horses.

I'm not sure which blogger started the trend of picking your top 5 makes of the year, but I like it and I'm playing along this year. This is the first year I actually made enough items to be able to do a Top 5.  I learned a lot and made a lot in 2014.  Maybe that had something to do with the fact that I was a RTW faster and was forced to make things to wear instead of buying them. 

And the winners are....

 

Colette Anise in teal wool/cashmere.  I love this coat.  It was a big thing for me to tackle earlier this year and I've enjoyed wearing it again now that the weather is colder.

 

 

Colette Albion in a burnt orange wool.  The making of this coat was a long painful process that I almost didn't survive emotionally, but I'm so happy that I stuck with it because I love the end result. This is the first project where I thought outside of the box instead of just doing what the instructions told me to. 

 

Sewaholic Cambie.  This was another dress where I played with design details by adding pleats to the neckline.  This is a fun number to wear but it's made in silk so I won't break it out too often.

 

 

Colette Moneta.  I lived in Colette knit dresses this summer.  They are so easy to make and wear.  This one is my fave because it's made out of Liberty knit.  I wore it all the time.

 

 

Colette Parfait in Liberty of London lawn. I love this pattern and I love this print.  I sewed with a lot of Liberty fabric this year.  It's expensive but hard to resist!  This dress is happy and cool on the hot days. 







I know this is supposed to be a list of 5 but I'm throwing in one more.  This is the Sewaholic Hollyburn skirt.  I really like the fit and style of this skirt and will most likely make at least one more next summer. 

 

I had one big miss this year and that was the Sewaholic Saltspring dress.  It just did not work at all which made me sad because it looks so great on other people! It was so bad I seriously doubt I would ever try again.  I don't know what I did wrong.

 

The year went fast and I'm surprised how easy it was to not buy ready-made clothing.  I went in a store once and walked right back out because there wasn't anything I liked. 

 

Can't wait to set some goals for 2015!