Saturday, February 3, 2018

Closet Case Patterns Sasha Trousers

My intention for 2018 is to draw up a bodice sloper and create tops, but here I am with another pair of pants.  I can't decide what I think about the Closet Case Patterns Sasha Trousers, and it has nothing to do with the pattern itself.  The pattern is great, but I swore off cropped pants  years ago because I think they make my legs look really stumpy (technical term right there).  However, I am in search of a pattern to go with the dark teal stretch denim I purchased from Guthrie and Ghani several months ago, and when I saw the Sasha pattern I thought I would test it out to see if it would work.  I'm considering this my wearable muslin, but I'm still undecided on what I think about it! 
I'm absolutely in love with the fabric, which is a stretch denim from Style Maker Fabrics.  So much so that I'm considering buying 20 yards of it so I can have some on hand for the rest of my life. You can dress up this pattern for work with non-denim fabric, or make it more casual with denim.  My top is a Sewaholic Oakridge blouse that I made many moons ago.  Alas, my jacket is RTW from JCrew.  I bought it years ago and will never part with it.  
The welt pockets are a nice touch, although when I study this picture they don't look lined up.  I didn't notice that before! I didn't add belt loops due to laziness.  I'm a veeerrry lazy seamstress lately.  
There are a couple of things I would do differently if I make this pattern again.  First, after topstitching the fly shield, I would serge the straight open edge of the shield so I didn't have to serge it to the fly extension after I assembled the fly.  I accidently serged both sides of the fly extensions instead of just one side like it says in the instructions.  I would do that again so both extensions and the straight edge of the shield are serged prior to being assembled. 
Second, my waistband is a train wreck at the front.   The instructions say to fold the waistband facing back at the corner when you stitch the waistband at the center front.  I did that, but in the future I think I will just do it like I always do, which is to sew the center front without the folded corner and then tuck the facing under to finish.  I think that's just personal preference.  I couldn't pull the folded corner technique off to get the finish I wanted.  
And here's the obligatory shot of the back view.  The model pictures at the pattern launch seemed to be extremely tight in the butt.  My measurements are a 28 waist and 38 hips.  I cut an 8 in the waistband and then graded that out to a 10 in the hips.  I sewed a 5/8 inch seam allowance in the inseam, but only a 1/2 inch seam allowance at the top of the pants (prior to adding the waistband).  When I hit the pocket I gradually moved out to a 5/8 seam allowance for the rest of the leg seam.  The result is a form-fitting pant through the hips but it's not skin-tight.  Also, the fabric is very stretchy with good recovery.  
I think this might be my last pair of pants for awhile.  We will see!



  1. I love that you enjoy sewing pants!! I aspire to get there-I tend to sew lots of knit tops. I have been eye-ing this pattern, and think your version looks great. I love the facing, and they fit you well. Also, your welts look awesome!

  2. I have not invested enough time into a pants pattern and therefore, I avoid it. These pants are lovely and I don't think they make your legs look 'stumpy'