Colette Parfait

In the past several months I've had several makes that were tragically bad, and so to being the summer sewing season I picked something I know I like and can make successfully: The Colette Parfait dress.  This was one of the first patterns I ever made and I've always loved it.  

I added piping to the gathered pockets:

The fabric is Liberty of London and it's sheer, so I omitted the facings and added a lining.  I didn't understand how to do that when I first started, so I'm going to describe it here in case anybody needs it:  It's overwhelming when you're first starting out, but it's actually really easy. 

1. When sewing the Liberty of London fabric, I only used one front midriff piece and one back midriff piece.  I put them front sides together with the bodice and skirt, and after stitching the seam I serged the seam allowance.

2. The invisible zipper is sewn to the shell fabric. 

3.  I used a simple white cotton for the lining.  I put it together exactly like I did the shell fabric, with no facings and only one front and back midriff piece.  I also cut the skirt pieces one inch shorter than the shell fabric so they don't poke out of the hem.

4. With right sides together and the edges serged, I places the lining fabric on top of the invisible zipper and sewed right down the zipper on top of the lining fabric.

5. Switching to a regular foot, I pinned the top of the shell and lining together and stitched right across the top. You'll also notice that I put my gathers right in the middle of the bodice instead of under each cup.  I like it better that way. 

6. I then flipped it right side out, pressed the seam, and topstitched it.  I know an invisible zipper is supposed to be invisible, but I always find that the fabric gets caught in the zipper even if I press it.  I sew a straight topstitch along the zipper to keep everything tucked in where it's supposed to be.  

Happy sewing!